DIY (Do It Yourself) Alternative Energy refers to the development and implementation of energy generation and/or storage devices at home that utilize a non-conventional source of energy (such as solar, wind, thermal or combustion fuels other than standard petroleum or coal products used for traditional power generation). The DIY process utilizes either items found around your home or items readily accessible to you through user-friendly commercial means to meet your needs rather than purchasing complete kits or ready-made items from manufacturers.

Why go DIY?

The primary benefit of developing virtually all DIY projects at home rather than purchasing ready-made items from manufactures is the savings of outright out-of-pocket expenses. Due to the fact that most all DIY projects involve a wide range materials that you can find locally an individual undertaking a DIY project can substantially reduce virtually all costs associated with a project should they have the time and skill to dedicate to the task.

As a secondary benefit many DIY projects can also be assembled using material that would otherwise go to waste around your home. Given the many already beneficial aspects of alternative energy this added bonus means that not only will consumers constructing homemade energy generators and storage devices be saving the environment through reduced carbon emissions while helping to minimize their overall external energy demands they will also be actively reducing the overall waste that would need to be processed or disposed of by refashioning it into something more beneficial.

Best Places for DIY Supplies

Given the fact that do-it-yourself projects generally have a flexible demand on consumers people should be fairly flexible with their choice of items as well for DIY projects and “think outside the box”. Rather than shopping for new parts at a local hardware store, for example, consider searching a local junkyard for parts that could easily be salvaged from old machines and used for your own purposes. This could easily yield you excellent electric motors that can be adapted to wind turbine usage as well as many other parts that could easily be used for generator framework and energy production support structures.

Don’t be afraid to search online for parts as well. Many sites actually specialize in supplying people with DIY parts and designs, and if all else should fail online auction sites such as EBay provide a wide range of items that people are willing to part with for quite reasonable prices around the world. Just remember: don’t pay top dollar unless it’s absolutely necessary.

The first heating method to consider is the traditional furnace, which brings air from the house into a duct system and then transports it to a place where it can be heated up before then being transported back to the living areas as heated air. More modern furnaces make use of blowers in order to facilitate the re-circling of heated air, and the furnace itself can be fueled by oil, gas, electricity and even wood or coal. The re-circulated air itself is subsequently taken through a filter system that prevents the house from being polluted with dust and other harmful waste and air-borne particles. With respect to gas and oil furnaces, they often have single pilot lights which serves to warm heating exchange units. These units subsequently warm the air prior to its re-circulation through the house. There is also a flue in these furnaces, and this is where exhaust gases are expelled to the exterior.
For the different variants of furnaces an electric furnace utilizes a heating element – commonly strips of heated metal – in order to heat the air. In the case of a coal or wood furnace there is a sealed firebox in which the fuel to run the system is combusted, and also a heat exchanger in which the air is warmed prior to its re-distribution throughout the house. The systems also feature metal vents that enable the air that has been warmed by the system to subsequently be released from the system itself in order to increase hot air circulation without the need for any additional mechanics. These vents are, in normal circumstances, to be found either in the walls or on the floors of the living areas. The temperature of the home itself can be controlled and changed by altering the settings on a central thermostat, and this unit is usually to be found on a wall situated at eye-level. The thermostat unit displays the current room temperature as well as the desired target temperature that can be easily set by any resident.
Oil furnaces often have tanks for storage, and these tanks can be buried or free standing outside the home. In the instance that they leak they can cause environmental damage, so prospective homeowners should bear this in mind.

You can also employ the use of electric heat pumps, which function by pushing heat from place to place. They can also function as air conditioning systems during periods of warm weather rather than simply heating units in the winter. The pumps themselves take warmth from external air, ground or surface water or even from underground sources (as the case may be, depending on the location). This extracted air is, if need be, warmed further by the system and is then circulated around the house. This system typically also features the metal filters and vents also found in forced air furnaces with similar thermostats and settings. One small differences is that the thermostat also features controls for air conditioning.

Baseboard heaters are yet another common alternative to heat production within a home which you will often see as long, metal units with internal electrical elements. Every individual unit has its own control, generally indicating high/low settings marked in increments. This does not display the room temperature, however.
It is not uncommon for baseboard heaters to be the sole form of heating for a house. They are also popular for use as supplemental heat sources for naturally colder rooms or those that are hard to fit with ductwork. These units are generally more costly to run than furnaces due to the fact that they rely upon a high energy draw in order to generate heat from the filaments contained within them.

Radiant heating systems installed in the floor or the ceiling are another option for home heating that can be used in various ways. These heating systems act to heat without circulatory ducts, thereby not needing to utilize blowers. Every area also has a dial control which is much like those seen in the operation of baseboard heating units. These units may be fitted into walls as well, though it is much more common and effective to mount them in lower areas beneath floor in order to allow heat to radiate upwards for maximum warmth.

Hydronic heating can also be found, and this is a different type of radiant heat in which hot water runs either through tubes beneath the floor or through units looking similar to baseboard heaters. You may see such systems installed in ceilings and occasionally under concrete drives in order to prevent the build-up of snow and ice. Such systems feature a boiler system that serves to heat the circulating water and can be adapted to provide heat for a number of different sources simultaneously depending on the particular need of one home.

It is also possible to find portable space heaters, being either electrical in nature or fueled by either gas or kerosene. Gas space heaters are more normally found in certain areas, and these can be either wall-attached or free-standing. They would only enable an area of the home to be considered a heated living space if they were wall-attached, and thereby an integral, permanent fixture.

As far as other heating systems are concerned house buyers may also consider solar heating systems, which may be a coming force in home heating due to environmental concerns. Solar heating systems use the thermal energy emitted by the sun in order to heat living spaces and water supplies. As a natural source of energy it is beneficial for homes, and has the capability to not only produce clean energy but also save a good deal of energy and substantially cut utilities costs for the homeowner. Such a system features a collector that is positioned externally facing the sun in order that it can absorb thermal energy.
There exists both passive and active solar heating, with active heating utilizing pumps to transport air or liquid from the collector to the home. By contrast, passive heating doesn’t require either mechanical or electrical equipment, instead relying on the design and structure for the accumulation, storage and circulation of heat. In such instances water is transported through natural convection. Solar heating can be used for heating living spaces but it can also serve to heat both water and pools. Such systems are beneficial in terms of their environmental effects (or lack thereof) and also they do not require the kinds of storage tanks needed for oil or gas-generated heating systems, thereby eliminating the worry of the potential ignition of flammable materials or chemical leakages.
While solar energy may be initially expensive to purchase and set up it won’t prove costly after the system is installed and many home owners can realize a return on their investment in a few short years. It is also not adversely affected by either political or economic events, thereby also guaranteeing a steady and regular supply without fluctuating costs. A potential downside, however, is that initial purchase and installation coast are likely to be high if no special grants are available for their purchase in your area, though costs are decreasing regularly in recent years.
This can, however, be weighed against potential future savings once the system is up and running and its durability and reliability. Once installed solar heating systems can last and function for anywhere up to 30 years. More cost-effective designs are currently being research and investigated, as solar energy is a coming force as governments and companies look to move away from stock-depleted and environmentally unfriendly fossil fuels.

Potentially homeowners might also consider the aforementioned hydronic heating system in a more comprehensive sense which in simple terms uses water in order to transport heat into heating and cooling systems. This is often called either in-floor or in-slab heating and is one of the most typically used systems for heating both residential and commercial properties. This type of heating can occur naturally with regular water flows and has been used since ancient times and is still popular today in Korea where underfloor heating is considered a standard in many homes. Such heating methods are currently believed to be among the best and most efficient ways of heating areas.
Hydronics simply involves a boiler, which heats the water which is subsequently transported to heat distributors situated at various points around the home or property. In larger buildings you may find a loop for heated and cooled water, and a hydronic heating system comes in two types – steam and hot water. The system is further distinguished as to its flow generation, piping situation, pumping organization and temperature. The pipes within the system will generally involve either a single pipe or anywhere up to four or five pipes – or even a series of loops as needed. All of the pipes are placed into concrete flooring so that heated water can be circulated throughout the house or building. The heat itself is delivered to the whole house in several ways, first through a baseboard unit, as previously mentioned, or through a radiator which will retain heat even when the boiler ceases heating due to the fact that it takes a certain amount of time for the heated water that is circulating through the radiators to cool. This can also be viewed as a real benefit to homeowners as it contributes greatly to both cost-effectiveness and energy efficiency. 


Those also looking to find a decent, cost-effective and long-lasting heating and cooling system can examine the merits of geothermal heating systems. Due to the fact that this type of system is so energy efficient it is very popularly used in many businesses, homes and even schools. Geothermal literally translates as “earth heat”, meaning effectively that such a system uses the earth’s massive supply of heat for its purposes. As previously touched upon such geothermal systems work as ground-source heat pumps that transport a constant supply of heat energy derived from the ground in order to then circulate the heat throughout a building or home living area. This type of heating system is extremely energy efficient, comes with a very low cost and is also very environmentally friendly as pollution is kept to a bare minimum.
According the figures from the US Environment Protection Agency, a geothermal heat pump has the potential to save homeowners anywhere between 30-70% on cooling cost as compared to traditional cooling and heating systems. Such ground source heat pumps transport heat by means of a network of tubes known as closed loops. These can be either vertical or horizontal and may contain water, refrigerant or a solution of anti-freeze, which will be buried deep in the soil and absorb energy and heat from the earth in order to deliver cooling and heating to your home directly through heat exchangers. As soon as the liquid is warmed up it is then transported through the heating system and back into the home. Once it has passed through the building and transferred its warming or cooling energy it then travels back to the apex of the loop system and the entire process is undertaken once more.
During warmer periods, and especially during the summer months, the system works to provide cool air to homes, acting as a type of air conditioner. The system has both primary and secondary loops and these play main roles in all geothermal heating systems. Some can use much cheaper plastic tubing for their secondary loops, and they are not pressurized and require less refrigerant – making them significantly less expensive to maintain and run as refrigerant can be quite costly. Also, by using ground source heat pumps in this way homeowners can reduce their electricity consumption by anywhere up to 70% as compared to traditional heating and cooling systems. The system’s ability to work exclusively on cooling during the warmer, summer months also serves to ensure that the pump is much more energy efficient for its task when compared to the more traditional, regular air-conditioning units. With this kind of geothermal system if homeowners also install a de-superheater a heat pump at ground source has the ability to transport energy to a hot water tank. This affords homeowners a supply of free hot water in both summer and winter.
There are, however, potential initial downsides if you are keen on a geothermal heating system and none of your prospective homes have one installed. In this case the installation of such a system is likely to cost several thousand dollars initially, which may be off-putting for some homeowners. However, for those with long-term considerations in mind such a system requires very little maintenance and can serve the needs of householders for between 20 and 30 years with little to no maintenance. Also, once the system itself has been installed homeowners will reap the certain benefit of significantly lower monthly energy bills over a very long period of time – something that should certainly be borne in mind when looking at the initial set-up costs. There is also an extension of the system, known as geothermal district heating, whereby hot water or steam can be transported to many buildings from the same system – a positive note for those looking to heat multiple structures off of one source.

Finally, in terms of stoves which can – and often are – used to heat the entire home many are more recently popularly fired by corn, wood and pellets. Such alternatives are becoming increasingly popular as people seek more alternative ways of heating that are both cheaper and more energy efficient than traditional means. Another excellent advantage of such stoves is that they also support local industries due to the fact that both wood and corn can be locally grown and produced as well as being significantly more affordable than either oil or natural gas. Also, because such stoves serve as direct vent systems they require no further venting systems or chimney. They are also highly convenient as they range in both capacity and size, thereby meaning that they can be installed comfortably into any home.
The fuel to fire and drive them is easily stored, and the stoves themselves can be simply and painlessly controlled by thermostats. Homeowners that are taken by such heating methods will be happy to realize that competition between the many alternative energy and heating companies is pushing prices down and companies are fighting to be the most energy and cost efficient. Homeowners can also choose to take advantage of certain government tax credits when buying alternative energy heating systems if there are some available in your area. All of this spells interesting news for the homeowner of the present and very near future looking to maximize heating and energy efficiency and costs whilst helping to take care of the fragile environment.

Before you begin make sure you read this guide fully. You will then need to make sure you have a few basic items ready for the process, and these include:

1. A generator (electric DC, low RPM, 30 Volt minimum output)
2. Blades (prefabricated or personally produced)
3. A mounting that allows the generator and blades to always be turned into the wind (prefabricated frame or personally constructed)
4. A tower or some other support to put the mounting on in order to raise the turbine high enough to receive adequate airflow (short mounting if turbine is to be set on house, large pole for tower if set away from structure)
5. Electric control system to regulate the electricity being produced by your wind turbine (manufactured of personally produced if you are experienced with electronics)
6. Finally, the batteries to deposit the generated electricity into to use as you see fit.

To make sure you are prepared and progressing smoothly, follow these steps:

Step 1 – Locate a suitable generator

You can purchase most generators that are are able to be used for basic wind turbine projects in various shops both locally and online and one of the best sources for cheap and effective products for your turbine is eBay. By searching eBay for an electric DC motor that can provide a steady charge at low RPMs, you can find a number of useful options to help you with your wind turbine project. The key in selecting a good motor is to make sure that you have one that can operate at low RPMs for your energy production while still producing adequate electricity (a good example would be a motor with the ability to produce 30 Volts and 300-350 RPMs as this would allow you to achieve a stable 12 Volt current in lower wind speeds).

The reason for the low RPM requirement is so that your wind turbine can remain productive at varying speeds and be able to produce electricity for you regularly. Using a motor that would produce the same amount of electricity at, say, 5000+ RPMs would not give any real value to your project. A quick eBay search for motors that would be suitable for a home wind turbine project would help point you in the right direction and get you started on the right path.

Step 2 – Locate suitable blades

Here you have two choices: to either purchase prefabricated blades specially designed for windmills or to make your own using pvc pipe you can buy at the local home development store and save lots of money. If you are like most people and prefer the second option visit http://www.yourgreendream.com/diy_pvc_blades.php for specific instructions and picture guides on how to cut out enough blades in no time.

Step 3 – Find a suitable electric control system

If you’re good with your hands and experienced in developing electronics consider visiting http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2004/9/20/0406/27488 for an in-depth discussion, analysis and construction guidelines on how to build your own electric flow controller. If you don’t feel comfortable in doing this yourself then simply do as most people do and purchase one online from eBay (you may even be able to pick one up from the same seller when you purchase your motor if the eBay seller specializes in wind turbine products).

Step 4 – Collect all materials

Once you have found and purchased or produced all of the necessary products that are the core of the wind turbine (the generator, the control system and the blades), it’s time to gather all of the remaining resources you’ll need to use in this project. These have been grouped as “remaining materials” as they are generally easier to find, more readily available, and a number of different variations can be done upon these. What you’ll need is:

- Tools for drilling, cutting, bolting and possibly screw drivers/screws (your choice if you wish to use these in some areas over bolts)
- Small lead weights (for counter-balances)
- Pipe (metal, 1/4” ID or different depending on your specific preferences, long enough to act as a tower or base support)
- Pipe (metal, 1/4” OD or matching to your primary stand pipe)
- Mounting brackets for pipe/rod and motor (to attach blades)
- Plywood or corrugated strand board for stand (optional other material can be used)
- 2×4 (for mount)
- Sheet metal and mounting bracket (for tail fin)
- Battery for power storage (a common car battery should work fine)

Step 5 – Attached the blades to the motor

The blades you either purchased or produced earlier in Step 2 will need to first be attached to a bracket that can be mounted to the electric motor. If your motor does not already have one that’ll fit visit your local hardware store to try and find one that will and still provide enough area for blades to be bolted on to.

Once you have located an appropriate bracket select three of the blades (only 3 are necessary in order to ensure proper balance of the fan) and drill two holes in their base as necessary. Then on the mounting bracket divide it into three equal quadrants and drill matching holes for the blades to bolt onto. It is important to make sure at this stage that you have measured all segments equally as any imbalance will throw off the productivity of your wind turbine. Once you have successfully bolted your blades in place attach the bracket to the motor to ensure that it can spin freely. If all is well set this aside for now and move to the next step of the project.

Step 6 – Assemble the mount

Using the 2×4 now cut out a 33 to 36 inch long section to act as the primary mount for both the electric motor and the tail fin. This piece is important as it will help allow your wind turbine to turn and adjust itself to constantly draw energy from the wind regardless of the direction it is blowing from. After you have the long base cut another section that is approximately 14-16 inches long to act as an additional base support for the tail fin and another shorter section that can help support the motor. Attach the motor to one end of the long section on top of the short piece you just cut (pipe clamps should work fine for this) and the 14-16 inch section on the opposite end. Then drill a 1/4” hole approximately 8 inches back from the end your motor is mounted on – this is where you will feed the power lines that will transfer the energy your motor produces to your power converter in order to ensure that the power cable does not twist around the frame as it rotates.

Finally, cut out a section of sheet metal that is roughly the same length of your tail-fin support piece and 9 inches tall and attached this to the rear of your frame with a sheet metal mounting bracket that can be purchased from a local hardware store. This will act as the fin to catch the wind and turn your turbine appropriately.

Once this is done attach a pipe mount to bottom of your frame that the 1/4” OD (or other pipe you are using) directly beneath the power line hole you drilled earlier and then attach a short piece of your selected 1/4” OD pipe (or, again, other size as you have chosen) into the pipe mount. It’s important to ensure that this pipe is 1/4” OD and NOT 1/4” ID as it must be able to insert into your 1/4” ID stand pipe and act as a pivot point for the frame.

Once this is done your mounting frame should be completed, though you may wish to paint the wood with a few layers of paint in order to help increase its resistance to elemental damage (rain, wind, etc.).

Step 7 – Assemble the base

Once your top turbine mount has been completed cut out a reasonable section of plywood or corrugated strand board to use as a base and attach a pipe mount to it that the primary stand pipe can attach to. In order to better distribute the weight of the top turbine mount and allow for the power cables to be easily accessed it is generally best to use a Y-style setup (where two mounts attached to the wooden base meet in a central point above the base that the pole will then attach to) so that the power cable can exit the mounting pole and be easily accessible to attach to the power conversion unit for use, however whether or not to use this particular setup is up to you. After you have successfully attached the mounts the base should be complete and you’re ready to begin putting it together.

Step 8 – Attach the power lines

Now that both the base and turbine mount have been completed it’s time to attached the power feed lines to the motor and ensure that they can all successfully be run through the pipes and to the power conversion unit you acquired in Step 3. First and foremost make a note of which line will attached to the positive end of the motor and which to the negative as it may become difficult to tell which is which after you thread it through the support pipe. Once marking both ends of your feed lines in some way attached them to your motor and then feed the opposite end through the drilled hole and attached pipe in your mounting base you created earlier. Then thread the lines through the primary stand pipe that the turbine mount will slide into. It is generally easier to do this BEFORE attaching the stand pipe to anything (such as the base support) so try to make sure you lay the wiring before setting anything up. Finally, thread the wire through the last port in the base you created in Step 7 and attach it to the power conversion unit.

Step 9 – Assemble the pieces

Now that each individual section of your wind turbine has been completed it’s time to put them together. First slide your turbine mount into the top of the support pipe and ensure that it can rotate smoothly – this is key to ensuring that the mount can adjust to meet oncoming air current and generate electricity for you efficiently. Also make sure that all power lines are able to spin freely within the pipe and not cause any snags that can cut your power draw.

Then attach the support pipe (with turbine mount) to the base. It will also be important at this time to secure the support pipe with support wires (4 should be enough) and stake them into the ground around the turbine in order to distribute any pull that might be generated during the turbine’s operations. As a general rule of thumb support lines should run from towards the top of the support pipe and be placed approximately ½ to ¾ of the height of the pipe away from the central structure.

Finally, connect the devices that you wish to utilize the electric current to be generated and the power storage batteries to the power converter and let the process begin.

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Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a home-built eco-friendly power generator that can save you money and, if you do this enough to produce enough electricity, may even be a profitable business venture for your future.

If you are beginning your quest to implement a PV-based solar power system, then before proceeding, be sure to perform due diligence with regard to potential renewable energy incentives. These can come in the form of rebates against the cost of panelling, as well as tax incentives and loans. For a full list of renewable energy incentives in the United States, see http://www.dsireusa.org/. In some locations, the government will contribute up to 50% of the cost of parts and installation of renewable energy systems.

Ideally, one full face of the mounting surface should point towards the sun in order to maximize exposure during daylight hours. In much of the northern hemisphere, this is usually a south-facing roof. There is more flexibility regarding the position of mounting on a flat roof. Nevertheless, the ideal mounting position remains where the greatest exposure to incident sunlight can be achieved.

Prior to commencing installation, consider future growth of trees, particularly those in neighbouring lots, which, in the future, might obstruct inbound sunlight. Be sure you choose an installation site where you have current and future control over potential obstructions (for example, your ability to reap maximum return on your solar installation should not depend on whether your neighbour has lopped his trees adequately the preceding fall).

Current pricing on solar panels is quite transient so be sure to keep a finger on the pulse of the market prior to purchasing, with a range in cost from about USD 2 per Watt up to USD 5 per Watt.

Next, you will need to consider the type of mount required. Essentially, solar panel mounts come in two types: flush mounts and roof-ground (sometimes called universal) mounts.

Flush mounts are cheaper and simpler to install. However, they are not recommended for larger solar panels and they do not allow for tilting (altering the elevation or angle of the solar panel in order to maximize incident light). Installing flush mounting kits entails attaching a metal bracket to each end of the solar panel. The bracket is then attached to the roof. When mounting solar panels with flush mounts be certain to leave sufficient clearance between the under side of the panel and the roof. This will allow adequate drainage and, perhaps more importantly, it will allow adequate airflow around the panel to prevent overheating. Consult your panel manufacturer’s documentation for recommendations regarding air gaps when using flush mounts. If the panels overheat then their longevity will be markedly reduced.

Universal mounts are so called as they can be used either on the ground or on roofs. Although these mounts require more effort to install, they are ideal for larger panels or where the position of panels needs to be periodically adjusted. These mounts are best employed when they are ‘flashed-in’.

Fully flashed-in panel mounts are the preferred method as the mounts are incorporated in to the roof joists before the roof is installed. If your house is due for new shingles or roofing in the near future then, if cost permits, combining these two tasks will allow the installation of flashed-in mounts. Flashed-in mounts will eliminate the possibility of roof leaks and the increased visibility of working with the roof off will offer greater accuracy when affixing mounts to roof joists.

If you are not in a position where you can remove roofing, then you need to drill down through the roof and into the joists in order to secure the mounts. Use a stud finder to locate the roofing joists. Mark out all your mount positions before you commence drilling. You can use a laser sight in order to ensure mounts are aligned properly. After aligning the mounts with the joists, pre-drill with a pilot bit in order to prevent splitting the joists. Next, fully drill for the stainless steel lag bolts used to secure the panel mounts.

Affix the mounts and secure the lag bolts and washers. In order to ensure a sealed, waterproof installation on each mount, apply some external silicon and metal flashing around the base of each mount.

Once all mounts are secured, begin mounting the solar panelling. Depending on the size of the panels and nature of the roof, this might require one, even two, additional helpers. Gently lower the panels in to place on the mounts and hold fast by fastening mounting screws at opposite corners of the panel. Then add additional mounting screws before tightening all.

Once the panel are secured in place, wiring must be securely run through local safety standard conduits to junction boxes and fuse boxes. You must consult local safety standards in order to determine whether you must contract a licensed electrician to carry out this work, or if you perform this work yourself, the building codes to which the wiring must be installed.

In series with the solar array will be a power centre that contains additional safety circuitry including ground-fault interrupters, circuit breakers or fuses and charge controls. The power centre can be situated near the roof, or more commonly run off adjacent to the inverter. It is important to minimize the length of wire runs and to use high calibre wiring in order to minimise loss. You must consult an electrician or reference manuals in order to select a wire gauge that is appropriate to the load your solar installation hopes to handle.

Current from the power centre is fed in to an inverter. The inverter converts the DC output from the PV cell array to an AC supply that can be used for household loads. This is often stored in basements.

In order to save electricity for when the sun is not shining, a battery bank is used. This is wired to the inverter and charge controller and stores excess charge that can be used at other times.

Getting Started

If you’re new to making your own biodiesel, you should start with fresh oil. Waste vegetable oil, or WVO can be used, but this should be done later, once you’re more experienced with the process. The best way to begin is by making a small 1 gallon test batch using your fresh oil. A spare blender can be used for the process which is outlined below. Once you’ve mastered this process, you can move up to full production sized batches in order to produce top quality fuel.

Chemicals

For beginners, it’s recommended you use top-quality chemicals purchased from chemical supply stores. This is because you want to make sure you’re getting the process right and that none of the ingredients you’ll be using will mess your test batch up. When it comes to purchasing these chemicals, the prices may seem a little high, but you should remember you’ll only need a small bit for each batch you make. In the end, it will be cheaper than buying from the pump, if you’re able to master the technique.

You’ll need some type of alcohol in order to begin making biodiesel. Methanol is the recommended alcohol, which means methyl esters or ethyl esters is optimal. Methanol can be made from a natural source, such as wood, but current production of methanol is nearly 99% industrial and still relies on fossil fuels like natural gas. Ethanol can also be used and it is a plant based gas which you can make yourself. However, producing biodiesel with ethanol is much harder than producing it with methanol, which is why ethanol biodiesel is not recommended for beginners. When purchasing your methanol, be sure the product you’re getting is 99% pure. Generally speaking, the methanol you buy should not cost you more than $2-3 a gallon.

Lye is also used in the process, as it is the catalyst which fuels the reaction of oil into fuel. It’s important to secure either potassium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide as your lye catalyst. Generally speaking, sodium hyroxide is cheaper to use, but it is not easiest. potassium hydroxide is also a better catalyst, but both can be used equally and to your preference.

Picking Your Oil

When it comes to choosing which type of oil you should use, it’s recommended to go with rapeseed oil, canola oil, corn oil, soy oil, or sunflower oil. Other oils on the market such as peanut and palm oil are called summer fuels. This is because it can begin to crystallize around 60 degrees, which could cause problems in your engine, especially if you live in northern climates. Therefore, it’s best to stick with oils which won’t cause this problem.

Making Your First Batch

In order to begin making your first batch of biodiesel, you’ll need a number of ingredients.

- 1 liter of fresh, unused vegetable oil (see above for recommendations)
- 200ml of methanol
- lye, either potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide
- blender
- metric scale for measuring small grams up to 0.01
- half liter plastic container with screw on cap
- 2 funnels which fit plastic container
- 2 liter soft drink bottle for settling
- 2 2 liter soft drink bottles for washing
- duct tape
- thermometer

Before you begin, you should make sure all of your equipment is clean and dry. The most important thing to keep in mind when measuring your lye is that you need to be quick with it. Lye rapidly absorbs water contained in the atmosphere and the water can interfere with its job as a catalyst in your bio-diesel. You should measure your lie out in a lightweight plastic bag using the scale. Make sure you’ve adjusted the scale for the weight of the bag, as you need to keep extremely precise measurements as you progress. If you are using sodium hydroxide, you need exactly 3.5 grams. If you are using potassium hydroxide, you need 5.3 grams.

Next, measure out 200 ml of your methanol and pour it into your plastic container using the funnel. Methanol also absorbs water, so it’s important to do this step quickly and replace the lid on the container. Make sure you work at room temperature so you are not exposed to the methanol fumes. Once the methanol is in your plastic container, add the lye using the second funnel. Replace the cap and screw it on tightly. Shaking the container a few times and making sure to swirl rather than shake up and down, the mixture will get hot form the reaction. You should swirl for roughly a minute so the lye will completely dissolve, which makes sodium methoxide, or potassium methoxide, depending on which type of lye you use. Before you move on to the next step, be sure every bit of the lye is dissolved. This may take longer, depending on the quality of lye you used.

The actual process begins in a blender. Using a spare blender, be sure the seals are in good order and the blender is dry. You should pre-heat your oil to 130 degrees Fahrenheit and put it in the blender. Next, add the prepared methoxide into the oil in the blender. Be sure the lid is tightly secured on your blender and switch it on, using lower speeds and mixing for around 20 to 30 minutes. Once this process is complete, pour the mixture from the blender into your 2-liter soft drink bottle to allow for settling. Be sure to screw the lid on tightly. As a side note, as the mixture cools, it will contract the plastic, meaning you need to keep an eye on it to let in air as necessary.

You should allow your mixture to settle for 12-24 hours, with 24 hours being recommended, as longer is better. You’ll notice a darker colored sediment at the bottom of your mixture, along with a paler liquid above. This pale liquid is your bio-diesel. The bio-diesel color will have many different shades according to which oil you’ve used, so there’s no accurate way to determine what it will look like. However, it is generally a pale yellowish color. As long as it is clear, then you’ve got a great starting product and you’ve completed the process correctly. Once the product has settled, you should ecant the top layer of bio-diesel into your second soft drink bottle, taking care not to get any of the sediment in the new layer. If you do, you’ll have to let it re-settle and try again.

The next step is washing your fuel, which uses your remaining soft drink bottles. You should puncture a hole into the bottom of the bottle and cover it up with duct tape for use later. Basically what you’ll do is add a half-liter of water to your oil and stir until the oil and water are well mixed. You’ll let it settle for three hours or more, letting the water drain from the bottom by removing the duct tape. Once the water is gone, pour the bio-diesel into your last soft drink bottle and let sit. When its clear, it means its dry and ready to use. This process can take a few days.

Once the product is dry, it’s ready to use. You’ve just made your first batch of biofuel!

The first thing that needs to be done is to collect the following raw materials:

• Solar cells
• Plexiglass
• Tin wire
• Solder
• Plywood sheet
• UV protective varnish
• Silicon caulk

Besides the raw materials, the following tools would also be needed:

• Saw
• Glass cutter
• Screw driver
• Soldering gun
• Caulking gun
• Wire cutter
• Voltmeter
• Paint brush
• Screws
• Rosin flux pen
• Glass drilling machine

Step 2

The most important component of the solar panel is the solar cell. Brand new solar cells are the most efficient. However, partially damaged or repaired cells can also be used. About 160 new solar cells would be required to generate 200 watts of electricity. In the case of revamped cells, the power production is comparatively less. Use the voltmeter to check the voltage of each cell, and employ the readings to determine the amount of electricity that would be produced. For instance, if an 18 volt battery has to be charged, then at least 15 cells (each generating 1.25 volts of power) would be needed.

Step 3

Take the plywood sheet and cut it into dimensions large enough to accommodate all the cells. The size of the panel is directly proportional to the amount power that has to be generated, and the amount of solar radiations falling upon it. The shape of the panel is usually rectangular, but it can also be cut into any other suitable shape. After the plywood of appropriate size has been cut, apply UV protective varnish. Set aside the sheet and allow it to dry.

Step 4

With the help of the rosin flux pen, apply flux to the bus strip of the cells. Thereafter, connect the cells to one another with the aid of soldering iron gun. In each cell there will be two unattached wires. Drill two holes in the plywood to feed the wires. Affix the cells to the panel with a little silicon caulk. Also use this caulk to seal all the gaps around the holes.

Step 5

Prepare a frame for the panel and fix it with screws and silicon caulk. Now, fix the plexiglass over the cells. Before attaching the glass, drill two holes to prevent it from cracking. Carefully inspect every inch of the panel and seal off all the gaps, holes and crevices. Moisture should not be allowed to penetrate into the interiors of the panel. At the bottom of the panel, away from all the wirings, drill two holes. These holes will allow the air to circulate within the panel, and proper air circulation will prevent the moisture from building up. As the holes are at the lower side of the panel, rainwater will also not percolate and destroy the cells.

Step 6

Before installing the solar panel, it is essential to ascertain the north and south direction. If the place of installation is in the northern hemisphere, then the panel should face the southern direction. This will help it to capture maximum amount of energy because it will be facing the sun for the maximum amount of time. On the contrary, if the place of installation is in the southern hemisphere, then the solar panel should face the northern direction. The panels are normally attached to the poles. The good thing about solar panels is that they can easily be expanded, modified and refurbished. Furthermore, they can be used for a variety of purposes like distilling and heating water, cooking, air conditioning, running machines and vehicles and so on.

Some homeowners believe that only wind farms can produce enough electricity to power their homes, but this is simply not true. All that is required for good production is around 150 – 300 square yards of space in order to build your wind turbine to begin generating electricity. The only real requirement for this process to work is having a good supply of wind each and every day.

Many people tend to shy away from this alternative means of producing electricity because they believe the cost associated with it is not worth it. Looking at professionally installed wind turbines installed by a professional company, you’ll see that these units and installation costs can run upwards of $5000 for a 1000 watt turbine. However, the cost of building the same unit and installing it yourself is much less, so there is no reason to be afraid of installing one on your property.

Installing the tall tower and mounting the turbine by yourself could prove challenging, which is why its good to have help from a neighbor or two. The investment you’ll make toward getting the turbine up and running will be considerably less than a professionally installed turbine, but it is still not something to take lightly. However, you should consider how much you’ll save on your electricity bills by providing your own electricity, and the length of life of wind turbines makes the whole investment entirely worth it.

Depending on the style of wind turbine you’d like to install on your home, you’ll need several different components. Most homemade wind turbines use blades which have been cut from PVC pipe, since they are light weight and turn easily in the wind, with the added addition of being able to rotate whichever way the wind is blowing. The size of these blades determines just how much electricity you can generate from the wind, with 2ft blades generating about half of what a 4ft blade would.

These homemade wind turbine work by storing the electricity they produce into batteries. These batteries power an inverter unit which produces electricity for your home as it is required. For many homeowners, the government offers tax breaks for creating your own electricity, so if you are considering this option, you should be aware of the potential for saving you on your taxes as well.

Biodiesel seems to be the answer to increasing gas and diesel costs. It is produced through a chemical reaction which substitutes the glycerol in the oil with an alcohol, which is achieved by using a catalyst, commonly, lye. While the process may sound complicated, biodiesel production at home is actually quite simple and has been around for several years now. All of the ingredients which go into processing biofuel at home are easily obtainable and with a few tools and techniques, you’ll be able to make your own biodiesel right in your backyard.

The first steps you should take in making biodiesel is to prepare everything you’ll need to get started. You’ll need oil, a container to hold the fuel while you make it, a setting vessel, a filtering system, 90% pure sulfuric acid, 90% pure methanol, as well as a mixture of methoxide.

The first thing you should do if you are using used cooking oil in the process is make sure its clean. It should be heated for around 15 minutes in order to get rid of any water which could be present in the oil. After the oil is heated, it should be placed in your setting tank for at least 24 hours so any impurities in the oil will settle and you can drain the water and food impurities.

To begin making your biodiesel, you’ll need a good ratio. About 10% oil should be combined with 95% pure methanol to create your oil, but you should keep in mind the more pure the methanol you use, the better the fuel will perform once it is combusted. The methanol should be mixed into the oil for about five minutes, or until the entire mixture starts to look a little bit cloudy. From here, 1mg of sulfuric acid should be added for every gallon of oil. You should always make sure you take proper safety precautions as you deal with sulfuric acid, as it can be very dangerous otherwise.

Once you’ve mixed all the ingredients together, you should lower the heat a bit and keep stirring. Finally, remove it entirely from heat and keep stirring for around 2 hours. Once that is complete, you should let the mixture stand for around 8 hours to ensure it is properly settled. Once you’ve let the mixture set for 8 hours and you notice it’s solidified a bit, you need to reheat it just enough to return it to its liquid form. Once this process is complete, you need to add 15% methoxide mixture into it and stir for five minutes.

Once the mixture has set for five minutes, you’re ready to add the bio-diesel into any of your engines. The process may seem time consuming and difficult, but it is really no harder than following a cooking recipe. As with anything, the more you use the process, the more familiar you become with it and the easier it is for you to make it. Since biodiesel is cleaner and healthier for the environment, you should take great pride in knowing you’re helping become part of the solution, instead of part of the problem.

1. Combine your biodiesel with petroldiesel
2. Use straight vegetable oil (SVO)
3. Use pure biodiesel.

The first method involves mixing your homemade oil with petrol diesel so it’ll be thinner. By nature, vegetable oil is much thicker than diesel fuel, which can cause problems in some engines. The important thing to remember if you choose this route is that while you’re burning cleaner fuel, you’re still relying on fossil fuels, which have high emissions and are not good for the environment.

When it comes to mixing your biodiesel with petrol diesel, there is not any set mixture to use. Some people create mixtures which are only 10% vegetable oil, while others use mixtures which are around 90% vegetable oil. Some people have even found that using vegetable oil straight works well for them, though it is not recommended for many of today’s diesel engines. In order to properly process your vegetable oil to be used as biodiesel, you’ll need to pre-heat the oil in order to remove any impurities, and decide on which mixture you’d like to use.

Biodiesel works in any diesel engine. There is no need to convert the engine or make any modifications to the fuel injection system. Biodiesel is clean and safe and is a great alternative fuel source, though unlike SVO, it must be processed first. Converting your own vegetable oil to bio-diesel is the best solution if you’re ready to make the switch, but some major gasoline manufacturers supply biodiesel at the pumps if you don’t feel confident in your ability to make your own bio-diesel.

Making your own biodiesel is a simple process, since it is made from vegetable compounds which you have at home in your cooking oil. The bio-diesel process uses lye as a catalyst to break down these fats and replaces them with methanol, which can be combusted and used in today’s modern engines. The whole process is known as transesterification.

For beginners just starting out making their own fuel, its recommended to make at least one test batch with high quality chemicals. These chemicals can be a bit expensive, but its important for you to understand the process and get the recipe down just right without poorer quality chemicals ruining your creation.

The alcohol which can be used in the process can be either methanol or ethanol. Methanol is still an industrial produced gas from natural gas, which is a fossil fuel. Ethanol on the other hand, is a grain alcohol, which you can easily make yourself. However, ethanol biodiesel is much harder to make than methanol biodiesel, so it is not recommended for beginners.

Tracking down all the ingredients you’ll need for creating your own homemade bio-diesel can be a task, but once you’ve gotten everything you need as well as your mixture ratio, you’ll be making your own biodiesel in no time.

These solar power systems make use of deep cells that are used to store energy. These solar power systems have caused many people to stop using more of the electricity produced by the country.
These people have been able to reduce their electricity bills by more 80%. And it doesn’t even cost much to set it up. The total cost is around $200. All you need is the proper hardware and a proper guide to help you build the system, which can be fairly easy to follow, provided that it’s a good one.

A good guide usually has the following attributes:

1. Complete instructions on how to build the system that can be used even by normal everyday people who have no experience whatsoever in building solar power systems.
2. Information on how to get the hardware necessary from the nearby hardware store in order to build the system.
3. A couple of tips that will help you build generators that cannot be found anywhere else.
4. You need to invest in this guide only once and you will be constantly posted on newer ways to enhance your system in the future, through the manual and videos.
5. There is usually a money back guarantee, if you don’t save hundreds of dollars every month after using the system for a particular amount of time you get your money back.
6. You will also receive instructional videos to help you build the system, which makes it easier for you to understand the building process.

It’s really a great investment; you can literally save thousands of dollars every year that you’d be paying towards the electricity bills, by making a small one time investment.
There are so many people who have used this method and are really happy with their systems. However, don’t forget one thing, make sure that the instructions that you buy are of good quality, if you go for the cheaper ones, chances are you won’t be able to successfully build the solar power system.